My New Favorite Restaurant/Winebar - by Ian Caruana

When I find a good place to dine I tend to stick with it. In Perugia there are so many restaurants, pizzerias, gelaterias, bars, and trattorias. Since I am an artist, the places I frequent are not usually expensive; in fact they are most often reasonable.

The other evening I found a new restaurant that has got to be one of the great finds in all my travels anywhere. The place was only a block from the apartment I have rented for the past month and a half; the same one I had last summer in Perugia. How this quaint ristorante slipped past my radar is beyond me.

Geraldo and I  were on our way to a restaurant I have been to before located just behind my apartment. We passed this new find that I always thought was an enoteca, not a restaurant. When we saw a food menu on the wall while passing I was surprised.

The restaurant we had in mind was totally empty while this one was totally full with Italians. We made the choice to give it a try. WOW!!! What a good decision.
This place was popular enough to take reservations, but thankfully they had one table for two open.

We sat down in the tight space next to the kitchen but were enchanted by the atmosphere. Eclectic art and bottles of wine decorated the place. Some of the cool funky light bulbs were hand-blown and every table had paper place mats and crayons.

The menu was simple but elegant with only five choices or so for each course from antipasti through to dessert. The wine list was indeed a short story size book with too many wines to choose from in my opinon. The waitstaff was young and hip and so busy they were literally running around the restaurant.

We settled on some choices...prosecco to start with; it was dry but had tons of flavor. They brought a complementary plate of focaccia bread and sliced coppa that was outstanding. The dryness of the prosecco went wonderfully well with the rich, fatty paper thin meat of the antipasti.

We debated about additional antipasti but decided on stuffed zucchini flowers with a mixture of ricotta cheese and fresh tuna, then covered in bread crumbs and baked under a salamander. I was blown away...how could something so small bring such pleasure to the tongue.

As we savored our antipasti, the music started. A middle-aged cool cat played his guitar and sang hip tunes that went well with the space. His raspy voice ensured that the coolness of this place was going nowhere. One of the owners said that during Umbria Jazz they had different musical performances every night, but throughout the year there was no set schedule for music.


We selected the recommended Umbrian rosso wine and once opened it was excellent from the start, but as time went on it opened up and just got even better.

I had asked for Farrotto...the Umbrian take on risotto with a farro type grain. It's a type of bulgar common to this region. Topping this first course were small, incredibly fresh roasted tomatoes that burst in your mouth like pure sugar, plus plenty of salty pecorino to balance the sweetness of the tomato.

At that point I had to tell the waitstaff to slow down on bringing my food. I needed to relish every single moment.

The main course arrived and Geraldo and I could not decide who won the contest for best plate. He had plump pork medallions so perfectly prepared you could cut them with a fork. They were topped with a rich peppercorn Marsala sauce and served with roasted potatoes, crispy on the outside and deliciously soft inside. I had the osso buco that melted in your mouth; even the bone marrow blew me away. I found myself cleaning out the bone with bread to garner every bit. Both were superb!

Moving on to dessert, the impressive display and taste of our meal kept up its rating with a small, round chocolate cake that was oozing its warm chocolate

innards, and a small scoop of gelato on the side to play in concert with the dark chocolate mixtures.

In addition we had a fresh version of mille-feuille with perfectly crisp wafers of pastry filled and topped with extra rich, thick whipped cream and fresh, sweet strawberries. So light, so simple, and soooo goood!

Having established solid faith in this eatery, I went ahead and ordered an after dinner grappa.....wow! Strong, with a hint of orange. I loved it so much I had the waiter write down the name of the distiller. Unfortunately there are only a small amount of bottles produced each year, and he informed me that it was so popular that there was nothing available to the public outside of a few restaurants in Umbria.

The following day I stopped by to gather more information and shoot some photos of the exquisite restaurant.

One of the three proprietors, Riccardo Giuzietti, said that Civico 25, located on Via Della Viola, had been operating for 13 years. And quite successfully from my view! Along with two other proprietors, Alberto Noro and Filippo Farinelli, the three of them all work in the restaurant and proudly provide genuine service and amazing food.

The ristorante interior can seat 45 with a main floor and a small mezzanine. During the warmer months, they also can seat 20+ outside with diners spilling out onto the street. I was curious about the interesting menu and how often it changed. I asked Riccardo how much of the menu changed and he responded only a quarter of the menu was set and the rest altered seasonally. The osso buco I had was one of the more popular dishes and was a staple of Civico.

How can I sum this all up without just saying this is LivingLifesBest in a place I love so much. This was a very special dining experience, and one I will never forget. I now have another place to frequent when here in Perugia.

Civico Restaurant and Winebar

Via Della Viola, 25

Perugia, Italy

www.civico25.com

Minimetrò - by Ian Caruana

When Perugia opened its light rail system from the historic center of Perugia to the outskirts of town in January of 2008, they named it the Minimetrò. The line begins at the Pincetto station off one of the main piazzas in town called Piazza Matteotti.

The Minimetrò winds down to the bottom of the valley through some newer neighborhoods just below the old historic center to the train station (Fontivegge stop), then onto the sports center at the end of the line (Pian di Massiano) with seven stops in total. There is public art and sculptures along the way taking Perugia into the 21st century as Italy moves forward to create a new history.

It takes about 10-12 minutes to arrive at the end of the line. The metro cars are fairly small and can seat eight but hold about 25 people when full during festivals such as Umbria Jazz. 

This futuristic Minimetrò was a quantum leap for a city that has a history that dates back about 2,700 years. The end of the line has a huge parking lot with a small mall and a weekly Saturday outdoor market with a variety of foods, art, and local products of all kinds. This is a place where you can get a drink or bite to eat, have your nails done or learn English. One can buy clothes or jewelry and even get your hair done.You can find a tanning bed, obtain tourist information, or dine at a gluten free restaurant and store. And that is just in the mall. 

It is also the home of the Sister Orca sculpture created by a Seattle area Artist Marvin Oliver and represents the sister city relationship between Seattle and Perugia. Rising from the water of a pond it connects and celebrates our histories.

A special celebration was held on July 5, 2013 to commemorate the Orca's fifth anniversary in conjunction with the 20th anniversary celebration of the Seattle-Perugia Sister City Association.  Delegates from both cities, along with officials representing each municipality, paid honor to this very special Native American sculpture. 

Marylin Oliver Bard, the artist's sister, read a compelling poem describing the importance of this unique piece of art to the ongoing relationship between Seattle and Perugia.

With Seattle's aboriginal people believed to have been in the Puget Sound region for close to 10,000 years, it surpasses the known history of the almost 3,000 years of the Sabines and Etruscans of central Italy. But still, with this amazing piece of art, our future and our past are now shared with one another. 

If you are ever in Perugia, the Minimetrò is an interesting ride for a 1.50 Euro and you can appreciate the art along the way, as well as the tiny mall with all it has to offer. There is no doubt that this short excursion is part of LivingLifesBest. 

Carmelo prepares for his second CD

My dear friend here in Perugia, Carmelo Messina, is preparing to release his second CD in a few weeks. To kick it all off his summer concert series began  June 27th. He is excited to share his new songs and has invested a lot this year in new equipment and a new stage for his outdoor performances at Antica Trattoria delle Volte in Piazza Matteoti, Perugia, Italy. 

His gigs have a wonderful mix of traditional and contemporary Italian songs and plentiful English favorites as well. The latest CD is a project full of true Italian emotion from the heart with his own songs. 

We had a great gathering of friends at the premier performance. More than two dozen of us enjoyed dinner and vino while savoring Carmelo's performance, singing along and dancing to favorite tunes. What a total blast, it turned out to be a very special evening for all of us.

Even Gerlando was dancing to the music. 

What a bummer when two hours into the performance, Perugia's summer weather turned to a downpour of rain and raucous thunder, forcing Carmelo and his guitarist to quickly move all the gear inside the restaurant. Many of us joined the effort, assisting with the removal of speakers, music stands, electronic equipment, and wiring. 

Dueling guitars 

While it was disappointing that the show was cut short we had a great time as we clapped along and danced to the music. He pours his heart and soul into the performance. He is so excited to share his music, his heart and soul and we all felt engaged by his passion.
Even though the music session was complete, a dozen of us continued to visit, take photos of the group, and enjoy new and old friendships. All in the vein of LivingLifesBest.
If you have a chance to see my friend perform either at Antica Trattoria delle Volte in Piazza Matteoti, Perugia or somewhere else please do so, you will totally enjoy it. 

Amore for Perugia - by Jerold Smith

Ten months ago I had the opportunity to apply for one of three Italian language scholarships offered by the Seattle-Perugia Sister City Association (SPSCA) to study the Italian language in Perugia, Italy.

Early this year I was delighted to learn I had been selected for one of the month-long scholarships for 2013. When the potential of returning to Umbria and attending the University for foreigners became a reality I knew exactly what time I wanted to go. During the month of June I could attend classes, then starting June 30^th the celebration would begin for the 20^th anniversary of SPSCA and our sister city relationship. A full schedule of events was planned from June 30-July 6, including meetings with the mayor of Perugia, tours of the region, audiences with Umbrian artists and artisans, visits to museums, lunches and dinners at restaurants and private homes, and so much more.

And if that was not enough, July 3 was the kick-off for Umbria Jazz, a music festival lasting 10 days, filled with stages and

Street performers at Umbria Jazz

venues all over town in many different piazzas, restaurants and bars all hours of the day and night. Thousands of music lovers gather and celebrate the love of music. There street performers and artists, booths for food, beer and wine, and a plethora of things to do. This was indeed the best of both worlds!

With travel plans in force, communication with the university in place, and my compadre Ian promising to be my guide, mentor, and interpreter, we arrived in Perugia June 3. Having dealt with the complexities of universita` registration, testing, and bureaucracy, Ian repeatedly warned me to “Stai Calmo” (remain calm) during this process (described on this site from 2012).

Even with his expertise, experiences from last year, and his Italian language skills, I was ready for vino before we completed the first day. I must say that while I adore Italy, they do make have a more complicated system for taking care of business! But in the end, with Ian’s assistance and helpful university staff, I was became registered and enjoyed a month of language studies.

]After many years of being around Italians and listening to this wonderful language, I began studying Italian in Seattle in

Elisabetta Valentini

2012 from Elisabetta Valentini at Percorso Italiano. It was a small and very intimate class. Elisabetta, ironically the Perugia president of SPSCA whose husband was working in the Seattle area for the past three years, was an exceptional instructor. And, as a native Perugian, she provided an enlightened perspective about this beautiful and engaging Umbrian city.

From the intimate class at Percorso Italiano, I was thrust into a class of 23 students ranging in age from late teens to 69 (there were three of us oldies at 64, 67, and 69). While I have taken continuing education courses and attended dozens of business seminars over my adult life, it had been more than 48 years since I was on a university campus enrolled in an actual class with generally college-age students. It actually was inspiring, and I truly enjoyed the interaction with the younger (and older) students from the U.S., Albania, Russia, Korea, China, Japan, Dominican Republic, Germany, Syria, and elsewhere. The early twenties Korean was named Giovanni – go figure!

I made a dear friend at school, Bettina Magi, an Italian-American from Brooklyn, New York. Her personal journey has helped me see Italy in a whole new way. An accomplished painter and retired high school art teacher, Bettina, Ian, and I have enjoyed one another immensely, as we explored this city and beyond, and engaged with the hospitable Perugian and Umbrian people. It is exciting to see Italy through someone else’s eyes as we watch her connect to her past (her father was born near Perugia) and her future as an Italian-American.

Attending class five days a week was challenging, especially since I was also doing publishing work remotely, meeting many of Ian’s friends and associates in Perugia and surrounding areas, attempting to assist Ian with his three photo shows he is presenting in Perugia and Corciano, and soaking in the ambiance of this charming city.

We’ve been very busy with meetings, lunches, and dinners. Ian knows a great many people in the area, many of them influential in the Umbrian and Italian art community. We have lunched with Daniella Borghessi whom we met in Seattle last year and spent time with at SPSCA events. She handles the sister city relationships for the Commune di Perugia (city of Perugia), is a delightful person who coordinated most of the activities for the 20^th anniversary celebration, and is assisting Ian with one of his photo shows. One of the true pleasures of this trip has been to assist her in any way I could.  

Views of Umbrian countryside

So, while school, business activities, and socialization have been crazy, what I perhaps have enjoyed the most is my amore for Perugia. This is a beautiful city built on STEEP hills (from our apartment in centro the 1.5 block grade to the central piazza has to be 10-12 percent; I should lose about 50 pounds!).  Etruscan and Roman walls dating back 2,500 years or more surround the telescoping hills that eventually encompass the central (in centro) section of this historical city founded in the 5^th century BC. Streets and walkways are generally comprised of uneven ancient stones that add to the beauty and semblance of centuries past and also make ones shoes quite dirty.

Absolutely breath taking views abound from points surrounding the central part of the city where we live. They include astounding hillsides with olive groves, vineyards, bright green trees, villas, castles, monasteries, small villages, and mountains of sizeable stature off in the distance. Even some Italian friends not from this area who visited one weekend were amazed at the magnificent views of these rolling plains as we toured the city and enjoyed the vistas from the top of the city.

Messina Family

And, of course, the food, pastries, and gelato are of great importance to me. We have consumed exceptional cappuccini and sfogliatelle napoletane at one of Ian’s favorite pasticceria, enjoyed true Italian pizza (so simple, so thin, and so good!) at his favorite pizzeria several times, and gratified ourselves with pasta dishes that embroil the taste buds. Several of those delectable meals have been at Antica Trattoria Delle Volte in centro owned by the Messina family who are dear friends of Ian. They have been very gracious and provided us with laughter, sustenance, and vino – plus some POTENT grappa!

The Messinas invited us to a family dinner at their home near Perugia on July 1 and it will remain one of my most memorable events ever in this country. Even with my language difficulty (only one family member speaks English), we all enjoyed birra and vino, laughed, cajoled, and consumed a meal that was beyond proper description. Suffice to say that is was sumptuous and plentiful – and I was one happy camper at the end of an evening that lasted well beyond midnight.

Moretti Family and me

Even though our favorite food is ice cream, true Italian gelato is difficult to acquire in the states with rare exception. Thus far, we have enjoyed a plethora of flavors on our late evening strolls, though gelato is good any time of the day!! Almost every local and visitor has their favorite gelateria and I certainly found mine, Cioccolato Augusta Perusia, a classy little shop off the beaten track between my school and apartment that also sells exquisite chocolates, chocolate liquors, and chocolate sauces. My favorite flavor is their Chocco Cherry that simply melts on your tongue. There are other delectable flavors, but this one defines gelato at its best!

Like most of Umbria, Perugia combines ancient charm and culture with some modern influences that allow one to soak in history, be fascinated by its architecture, and enjoy some modern conveniences. But my amore with this region truly encompasses the people and families we have experienced day after day. The Messinas, the Morettis, and Vastas, and so many others that have made me feel welcome and special.

  

Vasta Family

And at this writing, we still have even more people to meet, plus some additional time with Ian’s dear friends Roberto and Matteo who make me laugh and feel so comfortable. Each new person I meet extends my appreciation for the Italian people.  So, simply said, I have Amore for Perugia – we seem to love one other!

After the storm......

After a huge downpour the other evening the sky in Piazza IV Novembre had the most beautiful color so I wanted to share it with you all.....

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