Academia delle Arte - Pietro Vanucci

Giuliano Giuman - Director of Academia delle Arte

Here in the USA we generally utilize colleges and universities for our elevated art programs, but in Italy students learn the history and skill of art at an Academia.

The Academia delle Arte – Pietro Vanucci in Perugia is the equivalent to a university level art program.

Founded in 1573,  the Academia is not only a school, it is also a museum focusing its collection on statuary, yet also offering a variety of paintings, etchings and drawings concentrating on Umbrian artists. Also on display are creations by students, from giant posters to modern glass works.

The Academia is housed in the 10^th century convent of San Francesco di Prati procured specifically for the Academia. Some of the star attractions include statuary by Michele Angelo as well as a multitude of works by Umbrian artists from past to present. There are even works donated by Casanova.

The impressive collection has been curated by Giuliano Giuman for the past two years. With his tireless direction the statuary has been laid out in a manner reminiscent of the streets, arches and piazzas of Perugia with a very intelligent color choice of slate grey and off white, presenting the bright bluish white of the statuary in a manner that is almost epic in presentation. The statues are housed in a small room and are very close giving the room a sense of grandeur with the shear number of works on display.

 
The collection of paintings have been chosen with purpose and at the same time every placement makes sense. Obviously Giuliano worked tirelessly to make everything work perfectly together in a harmonious manner.

I was recently given a private tour of the Academia by Giuliano. The tour opened my eyes to the history found within Italy, especially the numerous items from the Umbria region.  With such an anthology, the important installation obviously holds the students at the Academia to a high standard. The expectation is evident with the works created by students I saw on display in the inner courtyard of the Academia.

Under the curation of Giuliano the collected works are not only important for Italy, Umbria and Perugia, but also the world. He has put together a grouping and positioned them so that they are in your face compelling one to understand the work that made them possible. The works are significant for the history of statuary in the world.

There was a moment in my visit that stuck out and it was after I saw the collection. Descending the stairs toward the exit there is a huge window looking out over the Umbrian countryside. This was the moment I was able to take in all I had just seen. Even though the museum is small it packs a punch and I was satiated with contentment as I realized this visit and view was indeed me LivingLifesBest. 

Our friends in Perugia

The Relationships of the Seattle-Perugia Sister City Association

by Ian H. Caruana

The Seattle-Perugia Sister City Association (SPSCA) is all about relationships. Both in Seattle and Perugia, an incredible group of people have found one another and created a bond and a bridge across the world. The people of Perugia are the reason we gather, they are the reason we celebrate, and without them we have no relationship.

On my recent trip to Perguia, I met so many of these people and I want to share with you a bit of who they are and why they are so important to us in sisterhood.

Spadolini Family

Alice, Michele, Riccardo, Eleonora, Catia Spadolini

Catia and Riccardo Spadolini live a few minutes outside of Perugia in the rolling hills of Umbria in a 16^th century restored villa situated on a hill looking out over the beautiful countryside. Villas, churches, olive groves, and vineyards encompass the view from their perch on the hillside, making it one of the most romantic visions of Italy I have ever experienced. The villa and compound are home to several family members and each of the clan is interesting in their own rite. Their daughters Eleonora and Alice are very welcoming and hospitable and Michele, Alice’s son is as charming as a young boy could be.

When spending time with these lovely people one never runs out of topics for conversation. They have hosted many of our association members into their home for dinners or given them tours of their city, taken them for un caffe or un gelato. The generosity of the whole family is given out freely and without reservation. They are a prime reason to visit our sister city. I, for one, am willing to travel halfway across the world to spend another evening with them celebrating life over food, wine, conversation, and friendship.

Rossella Vasta

Michele, Rossella, Benedetta Vasta

Rossella is in fact the most interesting woman I have ever met in my entire life. If I were to say of Rossella that she is an accomplished artist, business woman, and instructor I would only be offering a preliminary description of her valuable qualities. She is an extraordinary woman and member of our association.

I met Rossella at a meeting in Deruta at the L’Antica Deruta regarding the soon to be installed Alviero Morretti Foundation’s donation of contemporary ceramics here in Seattle.

Instantly I was captured by the spirit of this fascinating woman. She seems to ooze talent, inspiration, and intelligence and has a personality much larger than her tiny frame. She is for me bigger than life.

Spending time with Rossella means experiencing life to its fullest, as she is a mover and a shaker who is perpetually on the go. If that were not enough she is an exceptional chef! I had the opportunity to work with her preparing a dinner for 30 guests and found her skill in the kitchen as impressive as her other many talents.

If you know Rossella, you will meet many others as well. She is quite gifted at gathering people together and orchestrates others to network with a passion and a purpose. I sit back and wonder how I was so lucky to have met Rossella and thankful she is a member of our association.

Daniela Borghesi

Daniela works for the Comune di Perugia managing the affairs of the six sister cities of Perugia (Seattle and Grand Rapids, Michigan in the USA; Aix-en-Provence, France; Potsdam and Tubingen in Germany; and Bratislava, Slovakia).

Daniela Borghesi and Lauretta Vagnetti

For ten years, Daniela has committed herself to furthering relationships between Seattle and Perugia. She has been involved in organizing events, visits, and cultural exchanges from art shows to film festivals. Hours, days and weeks spent working out details, handling reservations, creating pamphlets, and orchestrating new ideas - all in the name of sisterhood.

Daniela and her co-worker Lauretta Vagnetti make the mechanics of our sister-city relationship work. They keep the momentum going when others are resting between commitments. She is one of the unsung heroines of our SPSCA and I hope more of you can one day meet this lovely and most talented member.

Elisabetta Valentini

Elisabetta Valentini

Many in the association have been fortunate enough to meet the president of the Perugia side of SPSCA - Elisabetta Valentini (Miozza). She, her husband Maurizio Miozza, and three children (Allessandro, 15; Giula, 11; and Matteo, 3)  have lived in Seattle for a little over two years due to Maurizio’s work. We all now have the advantage of her experience, friendship, and knowledge on Perugia - her town and home. How lucky we are that her family came to the sister city of Seattle.

Without Elisabetta it would be very difficult for our association to function as well as it does. She is a talented language teacher and Seattle-area students enjoy her teaching style and effectiveness as an instructor. She is already famous for her kind, funny, witty and gentle nature, but one must not be deceived by her gentle kindness for she is a savvy, intelligent woman who is very powerful in her own rite.

Elisabetta and her business partner/friend Roberta Torgerson have changed the face of our association with their hard work and talents. Currently Elisabetta has spent endless hours orchestrating the installation of the ceramic collection called “Un Calice per Alviero” (A Chalice for Alviero). She has worked both in Seattle and Perugia making the show donated by the Moretti Family and Alviero Moretti Fondazione happen. Elisabetta and Roberta organized the performance of Chiara, the beautiful opera singer from Perugia, earlier this year in Seattle. How blessed we in Seattle are to have Elisabetta with us for this window of time.

Thankfully while I was in Perugia, Elisabetta and her family were also at home in Perugia for some holiday time away from Seattle.  I met Elisabetta and her charming son Alessandro in the center of Perugia for a gelato and visit. It was one of the more enjoyable days of my time in Perugia. We ate, shopped, and enjoyed a caffe. Later, she introduced me to some very important and talented artists, including my newest and dearest friend Rossella Vasta. Perugia is Elisabetta’s home and she and Alessandro have a wealth of information to share with others - and they are generous enough to share it freely.

Elisabetta is just one more reason we have a successful sister city relationship with Perugia and another reason it is important to continue our work together. These wonderful, smart, giving people from Perugia make our lives here in Seattle fuller and more complete.  

Sisterhood - Seattle and Perugia

The Benefits of Sisterhood for Seattle and Perugia this November

by Ian H. Caruana

Moretti Family

We have a lot in common with our sister city of Perugia, Italy. We are bound together in sisterhood with a common love for food, wine, music, culture and art. This November we are lucky in Seattle to celebrate all of the above. From the 15^th to 20^th, the Italian Film Festival will be held at the SIFF Uptown Theater, and the “Taste of Italy” at the Seattle Center Northwest Rooms is set for Nov. 17th. And the event of a lifetime for our Sister City relationship with Perugia will take place on Nov. 13 when we will receive the gift of the Chalice for Alviero ceramics collection from the Moretti family and Commune di Perugia.

The foundations of Perugia pre date the Roman Empire and our city just has just over 160 years of history, still both of our cities are noteworthy centers for art. We both have outstanding museums, architecture, and public statuary for public viewing. We both host important music, cultural, food, and art festivals and love living life. This is where we are similar and this is the common ground we share.

While it is true how we are the same initiates our bond and gives us a foundation, it is in how we are different that fascinates us and keeps our relationship fresh and interesting. Our similarities are just a starting point for a continuing friendship of sharing our differences.

Alviero Moretti is known for the contributions he made in ceramics both in Italy and worldwide. He is credited with saving the ceramic industry of Deruta in the 1950s by implementing old and new techniques to create ceramics with both traditional and contemporary designs. In the 1970s, the “Galleria Moretti” was founded; the only contemporary art gallery in Italy that specifically showed ceramic artworks that have been produced by well-respected and accomplished artists in the nearby workshop.

The collection consists of pieces by 40 important and talented predominately Umbrian artists. I was honored this past July to have seen the collection at Deruta Antica located in the town of Deruta (in the province of Perugia and the state of Umbria, Italy). The collection is titled “A Chalice for Alviero”  “(un Calice per Alviero.”)

Because of the generosity of the Moretti family and the Alviero Moretti Foundation, there will be another place where one can see this significant collection of ceramics. Seattle will be the recipient of part of the Alviero Moretti collection.

 A chalice is a cup generally used in religious ceremonies and seems a fitting honor to such an important man in the world of art. One of the strengths of the collection is the continuity and diversity that takes the viewer on a ride of emotion with each interpretation of the same concept. I, for one, am honored to receive this important collection here in our city of Seattle.

The show has been on display in the city hall of Perugia and now will be presented by the Moretti family and Vice Mayor Nilo Arcudi of Perugia to Mayor Mike McGinn to the city of Seattle on November 13, 2012. The collection will be on display at city hall until it is installed at its future permanent home.

.

I encourage all who love art and Italy to attend the presentation of this collection on November 13^th. If you are not able to attend the opening, sponsored by the Comune di Perugia and SPSCA, do yourself a favor and visit the collection when you can. I sincerely hope it inspires you.

For further inspiration, visit the home of the Moretti ceramic factory and foundation at:

www.anticaderuta.com

The Porziuncola

The day I left for Rome was the day of forgiveness at the Porziuncola in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi. Because of the importance he has in my life and the day of forgiveness I share with you a poem I wrote several years ago after my first visit to Assisi.

 In the valley below Assisi there is the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli. This basilica houses the original chapel of San Francesco called the Porziuncola. This is a very sacred place where Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to pay respects to Saint Francis of Assisi. God spoke to me clearly outside of this holy place and I have never been the same since that moment.

*The photo I took in a olive grove above the basilica. You can see the basilica in the background*

The Porziuncola

Grandeur was not what made this tiny church the most beautiful I had ever seen. It was in fact its simplicity, alive with careful loving artistry.

Its loving artistry and simplicity was not its reason nor its only content

I respectively crossed forehead to chest, shoulder to shoulder and quietly entered

I placed my hand on the doorway, like so many before me had.

I felt their touch, their lives

My breath changed at the door

Softer, slower, deeper

Haaaaaaaaaahh

I felt myself let go of the life I had and leave it outside this house of prayer

I allowed myself to feel what this place meant to so many, past, present and future

There was but one prayer bench sitting empty

As I knelt the creaking of the old wood did not seem to change anyone’s focus

Such a presence, like the warmth of day, like safety

I felt a part of the others around me, all of us kneeling in humility

Some of us bowed and some looking to the cross

I began to lose all that was around me; this place had so much more to offer than priceless artwork

I was being drawn into its purpose

The space glowed, not just from the candles or the sunlight outside the walls

It had a heart…..and a beat

The rhythm of it was soft but strong

A sweet sent like perfume rose from the room

But it was not meant for our nose, but for HIS!

Each of us in our rhythm with the rhythm maker

Each of us connected to HIM

Connected to our history

Connected to one another in this rhythm

So many prayers had risen from this sacred place to the heavens

These walls so long exposed to the perfume of prayer, the perfume of humility…. the scent of it permeated everything within and I could feel it permeating me

I allowed it as I fell into my place, a place of comfort, acceptance and vulnerability

I cried out silently as did all of us……I cried out “Abba Father, Have Mercy”!

Soon, I allowed myself to look up at the frescos on the wall

Telling the stories of our Faith

Telling of THE ONE, of His Son, of Our Comforter and of a servant

This meek and humble servant who changed the world

And now here I prayed in his chapel

Worshiping as he did in this holy place

All of us crying out as one, not making a sound

In rhythm, softly, quietly making a perfume for THE ONE!

Because a servant said so many years ago……..Yes Lord!

Antica Trattoria delle Volte

Me and the Antica Trattoria delle Volte famiglia

There are wonderful restaurants all over the world filled with people who appreciate the care it takes to prepare food that does not just feed the body, but also the soul and the spirit.

When I travel, I always try to locate a restaurant where I can receive more than just a great meal. In Italy it is easy to find good food, so the trick is not in selecting the best restaurant, but in finding the place where you feel like you belong - a setting where want to return over and over again because of the hands that prepare your meal. This is the essence of life, food and relationship.

During my month in Perugia, I found that very place where the reason I returned again and again was not just because I was served exquisite food. I was included into the circle of patrons who became part of the extended family embraced by the owners, the family, and the kind people who work with them.

Gerlando and Maria

Antica Trattoria delle Volte is now more than just a place for some of the best food in all of Perugia; it is part of my story, my memories, my life, and my soul. Within a short time it found a very special place deep within my heart because of the relationship extended to me.

On my first visit to Antica Trattoria delle Volte, I decided to order a pizza. When I noted the ingredients of the “Positano” (Buffola Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Basil and Olive Oil) I was sold and ready to eat. The pizza was spectacular, but more than that the conversation flowed easily with the wait staff. There was a rapport that they initiated immediately. Carmello and Monika waited on us, and between them and the wonderful pizza it was clear to me this place deserved a second visit.

Monika

Upon my return, I had misunderstood what I ordered and ended up with two salads instead of what I thought would be antipasti and a salad. The mistake made me look ridiculous, but instead of this being a reason to never return, I laughed with them as the chuckled at my odd order. This was where the tide turned and we opened up to one another.

Monika has worked at Antica Trattoria for more than 12 years and has a smile as big as Italy and a heart as big as Europe. At the end of my meal she told me I should return on Thursday evening as Carmello, a son of the owners (Gerlando and Maria), was to sing outside the Trattoria in concert. My friends Sylvia, Rebecca and I decided to attend the performance.

Carmello sings

The day before Carmello was to sing, I asked the family if I could come by for an interview and thankfully I received a very welcoming yes. I arrived to interview the owner Gerlando Messina at lunch time. I was immediately ushered into the kitchen where chef Gerlando became my professor sharing a pleathora of cooking tips as he prepared several dishes. Many of you know I love cooking so it was a treat to learn the secrets of these very special dishes.

Perugia is in the heart of Italy and it takes close to two hours to arrive at the Adriatic or Mediterranean. So the fact that there were several seafood dishes on the menu made me question the family origions. It was quickly established that Gerlando and the family were Sicilian, and infact Gerlando and his family come from the same town as my grandmother, Agrigento.

Gerlando prepares La Tagliata

One thing about Sicilians is they are a proud people and if you come from the same town there is an immediate connection. We cooked and talked while I shot photos until the smells began to affect my stomach - I was hungry.

La Tagliata

Gerlando prepared for me one of his signature dishes. Steak thinly sliced and perfectly pink set on a bed of arugula and topped with paper thin slices of parmaggiano, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I know now what meals in heaven must taste like. The magic hands of Gerlando provided me with a food moment that transported me into a blissful haze. This would be a dish I ordered several times over before I left Perugia.

Radinela prepares pasta

The lunch became a feast with lovely wine, incredible steak, salad, limoncello, and a amaretti chocolate dessert to die for. All prepared with the same love and attention my grandmother showed me. I had indeed found my home away from home in Perugia with a family whose ancestors probably knew my ancestors.

There were so many wonderful and memorable moments I spent with the entire extended family at Antica Trattoria delle Volte over the period of several weeks. Eating, drinking, singing and laughing - LivingLifesBest! 

Making friends at school

Do you find it easy or difficult to make friends? When there is a language barrier do you let that stop you or do you try even harder. For me it is the latter. I am pleased to reach out of my comfort zone knowing that the reward is worth the effort.

Some fellow students with My favorite teacher Beatrice

In Perugia, like in Rome, I have gone out of my way to make friends. Being a photographer and writer makes it much easier. I present my card and tell people what I am about. Sometimes it’s to keep in touch with people, sometimes to network, sometimes to get an interview, but the intention is always the same - to connect. 




Since I arrived in Perugia I have made so many friends, mostly local Italians, but also a few fellow students. This is another one of those times when I just took the bull by the horns and went for it. I saw the value in pushing myself beyond what is comfortable. And, as my time in Perugia comes to a close, I am reaping the rewards of my investment.

One of the great joys of attending the university involves the wonderful teachers and students I have met. I find it amazing the number of countries represented in our class; Kenya, Mexico, Russia, Poland, Albania, Brazil, China, Turkey, and the USA (I am sure I even missed a few countries). We are not only learning about Italy but about the world. Everyone is there for different reasons. We have young college kids, professors, actors, artists, singers, medical personnel, conductors - and even a priest. The variety within the group makes this the most interesting ensemble I have ever been a part of.

It's odd think that when I arrived I vowed to only hang out with my Italian friends, and not the students, but that was pretty closed-minded and arrogant of me. I have received as much from my fellow students as I have from my dear Italian friends. I am very humbled and grateful. This is again another place where my learning experience far surpasses just the language and culture of Italy. This is helping to define me more completely as a person and a man. It is a profound awakening which will be carried with me until the end of my days.

There is a saying that I have quoted many times for many years to others in my life: 

“People come into your life for a reason, a season, or a lifetime”.

Bernardo-The man with the golden smile

I don’t believe that many of my fellow students will be for a lifetime, but for now I want to drink in this moment, this period of life that is but a moment in time, as short as the blink of an eye. It is bittersweet to be here just one month in the sense that I could not be more grateful, but also sad it is only a month. I have been here a little more than three weeks and already I feel like the time is almost up.

There are a few people worth telling you about. The first is a man who is a kindred spirit named Bernardo. Most of you know that feeling when you have met someone and it feels as if you have known them your entire life.

Bernardo is a priest studying the language so he can live in Rome to study theology for a few years. One of the most endearing qualities he has is an infectious smile and a genuine laugh. Bernardo is a wonderful human being who is interested always in what you have to say. Though we are all human, I have yet to hear him say one mean thing of anyone. He does not complain or lament, he does everything gladly and with a pure heart. This is a man that inspires me to be the best me and makes me believe that I am already LivingLifesBest. I hope he is a person that stays in my life longer than a season, but if that is all the time I spend with him I will never forget who he has been to me.

The other person that has made a huge impression on me is one of my teachers, Beatrice. What a lovely, classy, beautiful woman. I admit I have a big crush on her. Today, I told her if I was to move to Perugia I would implore her to be my friend, to which she responded we already are friends.

I was lucky enough to spend some time with Beatrice at the jazz festival one night when we ran into one another. I introduced my friends and she introduced hers. We had a wonderful conversation that lasted almost a half hour, but felt like only a few minutes.

After eight years of attending various Italian language courses with many instructors, I can guarantee that she is one of two teachers that I feel endeared to; Roberta Tauriello Torgerson from Seattle and now Beatrice.

My dear friend Dr. Rebecca Wheeler

Like Roberta, Beatrice is the cream of the crop, as it is said, when it comes to quality instructors. This experience would have been so different if I had not been placed in her class. 

The most unlikely friendship but most rewarding has been with Dr. Rebecca Wheeler. A linguist by profession, Dr. Wheeler has a command of the English language that I will always envy. It seems appropriate she would travel abroad to study yet another language.

Dr. Wheeler is a kindred spirit with me. We both love words and picking them apart. Making sure we understand their meaning and that we use them as accurately as possible. We both love food, deep discussions, travel, art, and LivingLifesBest. I feel lucky and blessed to have met such a lovely person to share my experiences with.

Though Dr. Wheeler and I feel a connection in many ways, we are also polar opposites in other ways. She takes beautiful notes in class and is very organized and I make chicken scratch and am always in disaray. She plans things out and is very in control while I am flying by the seat of my pants and usually out of control. At the end of the day, that makes for a good match and for a friendship I am thankful to have experienced her friendship in Perugia. 

I have learned so much here at school and it goes so far beyond the language. We study and I get better everyday with my grammar. I speak better and remember more everyday. But it is the connections that have so changed me and helped me to rise to be a better me. 

The master of street food

Matteo - The master of Panini

Since 1916 four generations have prepared oven roasted pork has been on the menu at a little stand in Piazza Matteotti called Antica Salumeria Granieri Amato. Cooked in a Wood fired oven the pork develops a wonderfully crispy skin that is contrasted by  moist herb stuffed meat. Matteo carefully carves the pork with a sharp knife before placing it on a hard Italian roll.
Like most businesses in Italy there is more than just food being served. There are relationships involved. 

I have seen several Porchetta stands in different places around Italy, but for whatever reason I had never tried one of these delicious Panini sandwiches.

During the Umbria Jazz Festival there were a few days when I was waiting on some money to come in and was eating as economically as I could. After passing this Panini stand about the fourth time I noticed to price posted 2.80 euro.

Well, I was ready for this sandwich I had desired for too long. I waited patiently in line while regulars got caught up with the man cutting the beautiful pork sandwiches. I watched as he used a combination of dark meat, light meat, and always a piece of the crispy skin.

When it was my turn I started a conversation with the young man running the stand by himself. His name was Matteo and his smile was as large as smiles get. He is one of those guys whose expressions tell all - surprise, joy, concern are all very evident when he is dealing with both new customers and old.

I was curious about how they prepared the porchetta and about the business, so I started asking questions. Matteo was the man helping me and he told me that for four generations the family had been making Porchetta, and as young as Matteo is I doubt he is going anywhere. I think he has found his post for now.

A hard Italian roll, roasted pork, herbs and crispy skin- Che Buono

The porchetta stand is at the end of my street so I have been getting a sandwich every day or two from Matteo, and even when I am only passing by we always smile and greet one another.

One thing I see in him is I am not the only one LivingLifesBest. Indeed, though life is up and down for everyone, Matteo has found a place in the world where he can please many people, locals and tourists alike. He knows how to enjoy and develop relationships. I have just a week left in Perugia and already I have moments of sadness at the thought of leaving behind so many friends. I am glad that the other day I tried another stand for one of these Panini, because it became clear after one bite that Matteo knows what he is doing but others do not.

The people of Perugia are special. Sometimes it can be tough to get to know locals if you are a tourist in Italy, but in Perugia I find it to be easier than any place I have been in Italy. I can see why Seattle and Perugia are sister cities. We both have proud, kind people who are ready to share food, culture, life and their hearts. If or when you come to Perugia make sure and do more than just greet Matteo and the people of this city. Ask questions and connect as it will be worth the effort. I know that I will eat a few more Panini before I leave for Rome in a week. And once I am gone, I will long for the day when I can return to see my friend and ask for a Panini.