Cinque Terre - Beyond the crowds....

I loved the Cinque Terre. But going at the height of the tourist season. Hmmmmm?

Our trip was arranged through the travel agency used by the students of the Universita` di Stranieri di Perugia. The tour was a full day trip. At 5:30 am, we all met near the university to board a private coach for the four hour ride to La Spezia, our departure point for the spectacular boat voyage to Venazza, the town considered to be the most beautiful of all in Cinque Terre.

La Spezia is not exactly the quaint size of the five towns that comprise the Cinque Terre, but it's interesting in its own rite. With a large harbour for both pleasure and commercial craft, some would consider it a bit ugly, but being from Seattle I enjoyed all aspects of the harbour from the navy ships to container vessels. The harbour is configured in a large U- shape and surrounded by incredible views of the sea and nearby mountains.

The day we visited was clear with only a few clouds in the sky and the weather was getting warmer by the moment. The boat was full and was a melting pot of different nationalties and languages. There were the Italians, Irish,
Germans, Australians, plus Holland America's large group of (unfortunately, embarrassingly, ugly) Americans.

The boat ride was so relaxing that when an Irish couple bumped into me and knocked my camera to the ground I did not freak out, even though my $300 dollar Nikon lense was broken beyond repair. Thankfully, I had two other lenses so after a moment of panic I just changed lenses and the camera performed just fine.

Our first drop-off point for our passenger ferry was the town of Portovenre, a picturesque town at the boot of land around from La Spezia that leads to Cinque Terre. Immediately after this stop, the tour boat rounded a sharp point with a castle
atop it, and we opened onto the Adriatic with jagged mountains that jutted into the sea. The sudden view made the entire boat gasp, literally! In fact, I found it to be a quite amusing moment.

This is the rugged portion of the Italian Riviera and the views of those jagged mountains and steep hillsides, many dotted with small houses on terrifying slopes, are quite spectacular.

We passed the towns of Manarola and Corniglia without disembarking and after about 45 minutes we arrived at our first stop - Vernazza (the fourth of the five towns in Cinque Terre), and it was a bit of a shock.


The small town was bursting at the seams with TOO MANY TOURISTS. There was no way to get a feel for the charm of Vernazza as one could only see the outward beauty of the place. With only an hour on shore, we really had no time to enjoy much; just a glass of wine and seafood antipasti. The food was incredibly expensive, and sadly, very mediocre, but the alcove setting was thoroughly delightful and we were all still smiling from ear to ear.


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Waiting for the boat to head to Monterosso, the crowds of tourists at the boat landing was a bit overwhelming. But the ride to the next stop was so picturesque that once on board I fell back into that relaxed state.

Monterossa is a quaint town and larger than the others. A bit more chic because it is the only town of the five that has sandy beaches. In true Italian style one could pull up a piece of sand or rent a space to lay under those signature Italian Riviera striped umbrellas for shade.

We headed into this charming town for a bite to eat,  searching for a restaurant with Italians as opposed to tourists. At the end of a quaint side street we found an attractive trattoria. I should have realized this was not going to be the best place when the waiter kept bugging us to order. I finally had to say..."Stai calmo, Stai tranquillo". Yet that did not seem to stop him from coming back to the table over and over again before we had made a decision.

I tried a Ligurian pasta with a fish sauce. The pasta was overcooked and it had little flavor, but my friends thankfully had better luck with fish and pasta dishes.

My savior from total disappointment was a cute shop filled with only local products from wines to honey, soaps to artisanal pastas. Upon entering the door, a woman immediately offered me a shot of limoncello; how could I refuse.

It was not the best limoncello I've experienced, but when I asked her about a local herbed liquor (made from lemon verbena) I saw on the shelf I was offered a taste and it was incredible! I bought a bottle plus some lemon curd made in town from the same lemons trees you could see just above us on the hill. My dear friend Bettina bought some honey that she later said was the best she has ever had. The wonderful local products and the kindness of the proprietor ensured that I left with a large smile on my face.

We walked off our lunch and went to the beach to relax before boarding our boat to head back to La Spezia. The beauty of the coastline was unbelievable and we had a magic moment when a pod of dolphins began swimming along side the boat. The captain slowed for us to watch them and thankfully the passenger ferry did not capsize, even though everyone raced to the starboard side to view the amazing mammals.

En route back we stopped in Portovenere. It was another one-hour stop, but by that time we had been in the sun and excessive heat for hours and decided to go no further than the first cafe. We sat outside at canopied tables and enjoyed some Campari and the golden light of late afternoon.

The boat ride back to La Spezia was fairly short and soon enough we were on the bus headed back to Perugia. The four-hour return trip found most of us sleeping and we arrived back at the university at 11:30 pm, 18 hours after our departure. We were exhausted, but satisfied with our taste of the Cinque Terre.

Though I do recommend you visit these special towns, I beg of you not to go during the height of tourist season. It brought a sad ugliness to one of the most beautiful places I have been fortunate enough to see in my lifetime. Make sure you try to find the best food you can and spend a night. Even with too many tourists, I can guarantee the Cinque Terre is a place where one is LIVINGLIFESBEST!

 As you can see from the following photos this is not a place that words or photos can quite convey with justice.

No words.....just photos!

Sometimes there are no words for the beauty I see here in Perugia!!!
Please just enjoy the photos!

University of Washington comes to Perugia

Washington Husky Women take on Perugia 2012 Club Team

by Ian Caruana and Jerold Smith

In true Sisterhood fashion - the UW women's volleyball team and the Perugian Club Team together.

This week we were invited to attend a volleyball match between the University of Washington Huskies who played the local Perugian Club Team. The UW women had come to Perugia during a whirlwind tour of Europe that began June 17 when they arrived in Vienna, Austria, said Jimmy  Bowen, director of operations for the team.

After playing in Vienna, the Dawgs traveled to Slovenia for three matches before heading to Venice and Milan for
additional competitions. The June 24 match with Perugia was their final game before they departed to Rome for a few days of sightseeing and the return trip to Seattle.

It was rewarding to see just one more aspect of our sister city relationship as we make connections and solidify permanent ties across the water.

The exhibition in Perugia was an exciting event. Though the UW woman were generally taller than the Perugia team, whose regular season ended in May, it was still was a fiercely fought game.

The score may have made it seem that the Huskies tromped the Perugians since they won all four quarters, but it was obvious to all in attendance that these Perugian women were talented and fought the the good fight the entire match.

6'4" Husky Melanie Wade poses
 with Marta Paffarini of Perugia

Head Coach Jim McLaughlin said he was pleased with his team's performance during the European matches, in which his players won all but two outings. He said he was joined on the trip  by three coaches and other staff that reinforced the efforts of the team. Several team family members also joined the tour for added support.

The end of the match in Perugia proved that this is all about fun and creating bonds. It was inspiring to see these young athletes exchange gifts, hugs and photos.

They laughed and posed for pictures just like young people should. Good sportsmanship was fully evident and the ladies proved that we can lose a match but win in life. They have learned what LIVINGLIFESBEST is all about!!

Breakfast no longer has the same meaning

OK…so breakfast is ruined for me until the end of time. Reason: I don’t think it’s possible to find a true Sfogliatella Napoletana in Seattle. I have never seen one and I would guess if I did I would be disappointed.

A Sfogliatella Napoletana is a sumptuous pastry that has hundreds of flaky layers of pastry dough fanned out in a shell-like pattern. It is filled with a sweetened ricotta cheese that has an ever so slight amount of cinnamon in it.

When you bite into a good one made properly, it crunches and spews powdered sugar all over the place. If they are slightly warm you must be careful not to pass out from a moment of pure delight. I swear, I truly swear, I have never in my life had a better morning pastry. The only thing that comes even close is a almond croissant, but for me the Sfogliatella still wins hands down.

I have my favorite place here in Perugia to eat these treasured pastries. There are some kind, sweet Italian gentlemen who run the place who have obviously been there for more than just a few years. I remember the second time I came into to buy a Sfogliatella  Napoletana I had one of the countermen write the name down for me and help me pronounce it properly. I wanted to remember for the rest of my life how to order one of these pastries.

Bar Pasticceria di Accademia is the name of this place located three-quarters of the way down Via Priori. I used to attend school close to the pasticceria so it was easy to stop everyday and get one. However, I am not attending classes on this trip and must walk 10 minutes up and down hill to get there, yet I find myself more than willing to huff it up the steep Perugian hills for this special treat.

I have to admit I have no idea if the other pastries and desserts are any good at Bar Pasticceria di Accademia because I can’t seem to buy anything but a Sfogliatella. Maybe someday I will, but for now I am content to know that I am LivingLifesBest by having one several times a week. 

Visions of Umbria

Rocca Maggiore - Assisi

It seems here in Umbria that around every corner there is a castle, a stone farmhouse, olive grove, vineyard or some hilltop town all making music for the eyes.

View from Assisi looking out over La Basilica Santa Maria Degli Angeli

This is a place where imagination comes alive. Photos seem to take themselves with opportunity in all directions. Hidden alcoves of beauty found tucked into grottos and at the bottom of valleys.

Or at times found in a passageway or through a covered portal. I truly love Italy and hope you enjoy some of the towns I love most in Umbria.......Indeed, LivingLifesBest!

Bevagna

Todi

Spello

Umbrian Countryside

Sister prays outside the Basilica of St. Claire - Assisi

Spello streets

Charming Spello

Looking out over the Spello Valley - Assisi

Bettona

Palazzo Ducale - Gubbio

Gubbio

Views from Perugia

One of the many covered passages of Perugia



All photos and text Copyright Caruanafoto 2013

Villa Pieve-Corciano Italy

VILLA PIEVE - Corciano, Italy



The back courtyard

Villa Pieve is one of those magical places we all dream of staying when visiting Italy. I was thankful to be able to have done that very thing.

Built on a small hill below the beautiful town of Corciano in Umbria, Italy, it is located about ten or fifteen minutes by car from the town of Perugia and about the same distance to Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno).

The main house was built in stages from the 13th to the 19th century. It belonged to the noble Montesperelli family. A castle dating back to the year 1000 is situated within a stones throw of the Villa. A chapel built in the 19th century is the heart of it all with the house having been built over it, and to this day is a place of serenity and prayer. The chapel was decorated by the painter Giappesi. The entrance was made of terracotta by the sculptor Angelo Biscarini. From the property there are incredible views in every direction, including small hilltop towns, churches, vineyards, olive groves, wheat farms, and castles. This is the fantasy of Italy come true.

Villa Pieve is a place for many reasons and occasions.

Villa Pieve is primarily an International School for artists but also offers many different programs throughout the year from cooking to spiritualism, art to chemistry, music to photography and the list goes on. One of the special programs is residency for artists, affording a place to stop and quiet the mind, soul and spirit permitting artistic expression to flow freely.

With meeting rooms, classrooms, a performance hall, a chemistry lab, the chapel, outdoor gardens, bar and grill, a children's play area and a multi-acre park there is something for everyone. The Villa has 25 spacious rooms, each with antiques, unusually large bathrooms and comfortable beds.

The views provide vistas of the gorgeous countryside or the beautiful grounds of Villa Pieve. WiFi is available throughout the compound so you can stay connected.
There is also a traditional dining room for meals prepared daily by villa staff. Thankfully for us Americans there is air-conditioning for relief from those warm Italian summers. The main house is filled with antiquities so the presence of the nobles that once walked the halls permeates the space.


Villa Pieve, is not just an art school for foreigners, it is also a place to hold  parties, conferences, concerts, retreats and weddings. With a plethora of wonderful sites on the property for outdoor weddings and the 14th century chapel, couples can have the ceremony of their dreams. There are also bikes for guests to explore the astonishing countryside.

The Vasta family operates the house, compound, and school. They are kind, generous and welcoming. Michele Vasta is the founder and president of the company operating Villa Pieve and its school.  His daughter Rossella Vasta, the director of the Pieve International school, an important and world renowned artist, mentor, and teacher who is involved with the "Knights of Saint Francis" giving much of her efforts to bring peace to the world, attention to the poor and spiritual guidance. One of her recent endeavors was the "Table of Silence," an inspiring global effort to enlighten the world toward peace through art ( www.tableofsilence.com ).

Michele Vasta's sons are also involved in the business and school. Filippo Vasta, the business consultant to the operation; Davide Vasta, a renowned video-maker and communication expert, he teaches at the Academy of Fine Art, the University for Foreigners in Perugia and Pieve school; and Angelo Vasta, currently residing in Milwaukee, teaches at Cardinal Stritch University organizing tourist programs for the property.

This is not just a hotel or conference center, but a unique place where a family lives the life many dream of. One can rest, relax, sit in the soaking pool or garden enjoying a glass of prosecco with some antipasti LivingLifesBest and La Dolce Vita.



The side garden



The morning light at Villa Pieve is magical and warm. You can smell the earth  waking up.



Castello Pieve

The views at sunset turn the sky deep blue and the buildings gold.

The front at sunset

If you have students you want to participate in the school's programs, have an event to plan or need a place to stay in the beautiful countryside of Umbria, you can contact the staff of Villa Pieve: amministrazione@pieve.com

http://www.pieveschool.com

Villa Pieve

Loc. Pieve del Vescovo,Via Bonciari 126 A

06073 Corciano – Perugia, ITALY





Sister Water-Photo-Poem

Sister Cities Celebrate "Sister Water"

Il Comune di Perugia (the Perugian city goverment) and Instagram are sponsoring   a contest with the theme of "Sister Water". This concept is celebrating the waters of Umbria and Seattle, our Sister Orca statue rising from the water located at the MiniMetro station in Perugia, and our sister relationship that is celebrating its 20th anniversary.

I am presenting a photo and poem here and in my three photo shows in Italy this summer.

I brought three elements together for the project:

1.) The city skyline of Seattle because it indeed is a Sister City to Perugia
2.) The woman's hand is of a friend who is to me like a sister
3.) The water being the element that ties us together for it brings life and cleansing

If you have the Instagram app, I ask you to support me and our city in this effort by following me on Instagram and hitting the "I Like" button for the Sister Water photo. My profile name is Caruanafoto.

Thank you all for your support.

Ian Caruana

Sister Water

Sister Alqwu

Born of “Alqwu” is this place, this space, our home

The clouds in the heavens provide the snows

Collected by our mother earth at her highest points,

Held captive until the land needs its drink

With patience, glaciers satiate our streams

And the oceans welcome their sister waters

Flowing downward from the tallest peaks, feeding the emerald green

It is here our lives are lived on barrowed soil

Older than the histories we know

We were not always the caretakers of this water, this ground

Si’Ahl, our heritage, our namesake

A gift from the Lushootseed language of aboriginal terra firma

A terrain of hills and mountains - of rivers and oceans

Merging as sisters, living in concert with the trees, plants, animals and people

Here we find ourselves, define ourselves, become ourselves

We say our name loud and proud, no need for a whisper

We are Seattle – The Emerald City

Footnotes:

Si’Ahl- the name of Seattle in the Lushootseed language

Alqwu- the word for water in the Lushootseed language of the Duwamish Tribe of the Puget Sound area. The ancestors of the Duwamish Tribe is said to have lived in Puget Sound for nearly 10,000 years ( according to Wikipedia ). 

Seattles SPSCA Hero's

SEATTLE'S SPSCA HEROS

When Daniela Borghesi from Perugia was visiting for the Alviero Moretti Foundation ceramics donation to the city of Seattle, plus the Italian Film Festival, she shared with me that Seattle is the most energetic sister city with Perguia that has an active group of volunteers making the association what it is. It is a place where Italians and non-Italians can share the love of Italy and all things Italian. We have music performances, film festivals, Italian conversation tables, cultural and art exchanges - not to mention we gather for food (of course, it's Italy for goodness sake)!

I am proud of our association (Seattle-Perugia Sister City Association) and all that they do for our community. And I am most proud of our leaders and volunteers who work tirelessly to make this a successful organization that serves the communities of two cities. Though I cannot name all the members who contribute (there are just too many), I would like to share some things about ta few members whose work makes this group what it is.

Donna James

Donna James

It is not easy for many people to get to know Donna. This is because she is always working and doing so many things she cannot stay in one place long enough for you to find everything out. Most of the times I have seen Donna at an event, she has a clipboard in hand and documents pertaining to the event (most likely the document is prepared by her). She is the detail person. She organizes people, times, arrivals, meetings, money, paperwork and the list goes on.

Donna does not just sit on our board and work hard for SPSCA, she also sits on the board for the prestigious Cornish Colege of the Performing Arts in Seattle.  Her time is valuable and yet she spends hour after hour with plans, documents, research, phone calls and the like. As well as there is time to spend with her family and friends.

She might be married to the president of our organization, but she is certainly riding on no ones coat tails. I respect and appreciate all she does and ask you all to tell her the thing you have always meant to say or didn't know you should which is "Thank You"!

Alan Veigel


Alan is the vice-president of our organization here in Seattle. He is a kind, intelligent man who is very dependable. This of course makes him one of the backbones that we count on. He does so much behind the scenes work that no one knows about.

I would imagine that Alan is responsible for many of the things that others take for granted. He must put on many hats depending on what the situation demands. Thankfully he is part of a team. His wife Laura Parma-Veigel is as important as he is. If she herself is not a part of a specific event you, can guarantee that she was  supporting all that her partner, teammate, and husband was doing. They do the jobs of more than two people and are irreplaceable.

Mike James

The president of our Seattle organization is a wonderful man with a vision that he is constantly striving for. We could not be more fortunate to have such a capable man leading us as we build relationships across the world. His driving force keeps our Facebook page updated, our website moving forward, and our events publicized. He MC's when necessary, makes speeches, writes press releases, and like the others, the list goes on.

Mike James recieves an award for SPSCA

Mike James has the energy of a young man and keeps himself busier than most could handle, whether his age or mine. With a plethora of knowledge from many years as a TV news journalist, his skills at communication are extraordinarily perfect for his position. He is our front man and he is good at it. Whomever he passes the torch to better be ready. Few can fill his shoes, but then again who would even set themselves up for that kind of failure.

Too many unsung heros and too many volunteers that I cannot even write about them all. I just hope you see that these people are worth thanking and receiving your respect. Remember next time you see them to tell them that very thing....."thank you"!