The Porziuncola

The day I left for Rome was the day of forgiveness at the Porziuncola in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi. Because of the importance he has in my life and the day of forgiveness I share with you a poem I wrote several years ago after my first visit to Assisi.

 In the valley below Assisi there is the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli. This basilica houses the original chapel of San Francesco called the Porziuncola. This is a very sacred place where Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to pay respects to Saint Francis of Assisi. God spoke to me clearly outside of this holy place and I have never been the same since that moment.

*The photo I took in a olive grove above the basilica. You can see the basilica in the background*

The Porziuncola

Grandeur was not what made this tiny church the most beautiful I had ever seen. It was in fact its simplicity, alive with careful loving artistry.

Its loving artistry and simplicity was not its reason nor its only content

I respectively crossed forehead to chest, shoulder to shoulder and quietly entered

I placed my hand on the doorway, like so many before me had.

I felt their touch, their lives

My breath changed at the door

Softer, slower, deeper

Haaaaaaaaaahh

I felt myself let go of the life I had and leave it outside this house of prayer

I allowed myself to feel what this place meant to so many, past, present and future

There was but one prayer bench sitting empty

As I knelt the creaking of the old wood did not seem to change anyone’s focus

Such a presence, like the warmth of day, like safety

I felt a part of the others around me, all of us kneeling in humility

Some of us bowed and some looking to the cross

I began to lose all that was around me; this place had so much more to offer than priceless artwork

I was being drawn into its purpose

The space glowed, not just from the candles or the sunlight outside the walls

It had a heart…..and a beat

The rhythm of it was soft but strong

A sweet sent like perfume rose from the room

But it was not meant for our nose, but for HIS!

Each of us in our rhythm with the rhythm maker

Each of us connected to HIM

Connected to our history

Connected to one another in this rhythm

So many prayers had risen from this sacred place to the heavens

These walls so long exposed to the perfume of prayer, the perfume of humility…. the scent of it permeated everything within and I could feel it permeating me

I allowed it as I fell into my place, a place of comfort, acceptance and vulnerability

I cried out silently as did all of us……I cried out “Abba Father, Have Mercy”!

Soon, I allowed myself to look up at the frescos on the wall

Telling the stories of our Faith

Telling of THE ONE, of His Son, of Our Comforter and of a servant

This meek and humble servant who changed the world

And now here I prayed in his chapel

Worshiping as he did in this holy place

All of us crying out as one, not making a sound

In rhythm, softly, quietly making a perfume for THE ONE!

Because a servant said so many years ago……..Yes Lord!

Antica Trattoria delle Volte

Me and the Antica Trattoria delle Volte famiglia

There are wonderful restaurants all over the world filled with people who appreciate the care it takes to prepare food that does not just feed the body, but also the soul and the spirit.

When I travel, I always try to locate a restaurant where I can receive more than just a great meal. In Italy it is easy to find good food, so the trick is not in selecting the best restaurant, but in finding the place where you feel like you belong - a setting where want to return over and over again because of the hands that prepare your meal. This is the essence of life, food and relationship.

During my month in Perugia, I found that very place where the reason I returned again and again was not just because I was served exquisite food. I was included into the circle of patrons who became part of the extended family embraced by the owners, the family, and the kind people who work with them.

Gerlando and Maria

Antica Trattoria delle Volte is now more than just a place for some of the best food in all of Perugia; it is part of my story, my memories, my life, and my soul. Within a short time it found a very special place deep within my heart because of the relationship extended to me.

On my first visit to Antica Trattoria delle Volte, I decided to order a pizza. When I noted the ingredients of the “Positano” (Buffola Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Basil and Olive Oil) I was sold and ready to eat. The pizza was spectacular, but more than that the conversation flowed easily with the wait staff. There was a rapport that they initiated immediately. Carmello and Monika waited on us, and between them and the wonderful pizza it was clear to me this place deserved a second visit.

Monika

Upon my return, I had misunderstood what I ordered and ended up with two salads instead of what I thought would be antipasti and a salad. The mistake made me look ridiculous, but instead of this being a reason to never return, I laughed with them as the chuckled at my odd order. This was where the tide turned and we opened up to one another.

Monika has worked at Antica Trattoria for more than 12 years and has a smile as big as Italy and a heart as big as Europe. At the end of my meal she told me I should return on Thursday evening as Carmello, a son of the owners (Gerlando and Maria), was to sing outside the Trattoria in concert. My friends Sylvia, Rebecca and I decided to attend the performance.

Carmello sings

The day before Carmello was to sing, I asked the family if I could come by for an interview and thankfully I received a very welcoming yes. I arrived to interview the owner Gerlando Messina at lunch time. I was immediately ushered into the kitchen where chef Gerlando became my professor sharing a pleathora of cooking tips as he prepared several dishes. Many of you know I love cooking so it was a treat to learn the secrets of these very special dishes.

Perugia is in the heart of Italy and it takes close to two hours to arrive at the Adriatic or Mediterranean. So the fact that there were several seafood dishes on the menu made me question the family origions. It was quickly established that Gerlando and the family were Sicilian, and infact Gerlando and his family come from the same town as my grandmother, Agrigento.

Gerlando prepares La Tagliata

One thing about Sicilians is they are a proud people and if you come from the same town there is an immediate connection. We cooked and talked while I shot photos until the smells began to affect my stomach - I was hungry.

La Tagliata

Gerlando prepared for me one of his signature dishes. Steak thinly sliced and perfectly pink set on a bed of arugula and topped with paper thin slices of parmaggiano, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I know now what meals in heaven must taste like. The magic hands of Gerlando provided me with a food moment that transported me into a blissful haze. This would be a dish I ordered several times over before I left Perugia.

Radinela prepares pasta

The lunch became a feast with lovely wine, incredible steak, salad, limoncello, and a amaretti chocolate dessert to die for. All prepared with the same love and attention my grandmother showed me. I had indeed found my home away from home in Perugia with a family whose ancestors probably knew my ancestors.

There were so many wonderful and memorable moments I spent with the entire extended family at Antica Trattoria delle Volte over the period of several weeks. Eating, drinking, singing and laughing - LivingLifesBest!